what to do with loose ends in knitting projects

How to weave in ends – 10 essential knitting techniques

Footstep by footstep instructions showing y'all the best manner to weave in ends in knitting- no matter your stitch pattern or material

Before you lot can article of clothing your finished project at that place is almost ever i terminal pace you demand to practice. In all the places you joined in a new brawl, changed colors, bandage-on, or cast-off, there is a fiddling tail dangling downwards that isn't exactly pretty. So, in this tutorial, I'll testify you 10 different methods to weave in ends.

Why and then many techniques? Well, in knitting, weaving in ends serves two purposes. Of course, you want to proceed your stitches from unraveling. But there's likewise a cosmetic reason. You lot want your knitting to be every bit seamless and smoothen every bit possible. And that's why there is a difference if you demand to sew in the ends of a project in stockinette stitch, ribbing or lace.

how the stockinette stitch swatch looks after weaving in the ends

You should also be aware, that different materials carry differently. Some yarns have a lot of friction (your standard worsted wool, mohair yarns, camel pilus, etc) and others are super slick – like cotton or some alpaca yarns. Some yarns are feltable, others aren't.

And depending on all these characteristics, and the individual backdrop of your knitting blueprint (it's seamed, there are stripes/colorwork, lace, etc) at that place is arguable a best way to weave in tails and some methods that are peradventure no all that ideal in these cases (click hither to bank check out a mail where I compared dissimilar methods to weave in tails).

So, let'south dive right into it.

Materials you demand:

Note: I earn a minor committee for purchases made through links in this commodity.

a couple of sharp and blunt tapestry needles used for weaving in ends in knitting presented on a wooden boar
Left: abrupt tapestry needles | Right: tapestry needles with blunt tips

To weave in ends you will need a tapestry needle. For most methods, a sharp tapestry needle is recommended, while for a very few techniques, a blunt tapestry needle is amend:

  • Sharp tapestry needles
  • Edgeless tapestry needle

Active Time v minutes

Total Time 5 minutes

Instructions

  1. Thread your tail on your tapestry needle and then weave information technology in diagonally by going right through the purl bumps. Don't go around them, spear correct through them! Go through at least 5-six stitches in that fashion. weaving in the ends by goign through the purl pumps on the wrong side with a tapestry needle
  2. Pull the tail through and go for another 5-6 stitches in a different management. You can go back in the same direction you lot came from or you turn at a right angle. weaving in the ends into one more direction at a right angle
  3. Pull the end through only don't pull it all the style through. You lot demand a bit of slack correct there where yous changed directions. keeping a little loop after you changed direction so your fabric doesn't pucker
  4. Stretch out your fabric and let your finish settle in. You lot don't want to constrict your cloth in any way - particularly the stitches around the bend. stretching out the knitting so the ends settle in
  5. Once you are satisfied and you ensured that the textile isn't puckered in whatever way, yous can cut the tail. You might want to leave a little stub. cutting of the tail after weaving in

Notes

If you did everything right, it should be barely visible on the incorrect side and at that place should exist no trace of your ends on the right side. Over time, your tail volition felt in place (after you lot launder your project one time or twice) and the bond will become even securer.

The end of the tail might come up loose a bit but that's naught to worry well-nigh (at least if it's just 1 or ii stitches). I would keep it there and non cut it.

One important annotation: This method simply works very well for organic fibers. If you are knitting with cotton or whatever other very slippery yarn, so you lot need a special method (encounter below).

#2 Ribbing

Now, if y'all are knitting ribbing (mayhap a 2×2 rib sew), you tin can't use the first method I showed you lot. Outset of all, there are not enough purl bumps in a diagonal management. And on top of that, those are typically very stretchy kinds of patterns where you don't desire to weave in ends in the same management you stop upwardly stretching your finished projection (makes it very easy for the tail to come loose).

Instead, you have to stitch in the tails like this.

Step 1: Thread the tail on a tapestry needle and follow one rib horizontally. Go right through the left (or right) leg of the knit stitches. If your project is not reversible (similar the typical cuff of a sock), then consider doing this on the wrong side.

weaving in the ends of ribbing by going through one rib with a tapestry needle

Footstep two: Pull the tail through and weave in the rest of the tail in the opposite management following the same rib. Only this time, go right through the other legs of the same knit stitches.

going through the rib one more me in the other direction

Step 3: Pull the tail all the way through. Only over again, don't pull too tightly. Instead, massage the tail into identify and stretch out your ribbing quite a bit to let the terminate settle in. Simply then, cut off any backlog.

how the ribbing swatch looks like after weaving in
The finished ii×ii rib swatch with the nearly invisible tail in the left corner

If done the right style, this method is barely visible from either side and very secure. It works for any kind of ribbing and all other reversible knitting stitches with a stacked column (wale) of knit stitches.

#3 Garter Sew

At present, let'due south talk about the easiest knitting run up of them all: Garter sew. Interestingly enough, it is non the easiest design to weave in tails. There are a lot of methods floating effectually the internet. Some of them involve duplicate stitches or ask yous to get diagonally on the wrong side.

If you ask me, they are all not exactly platonic. Duplicate stitch is very visible and going diagonally through the purl bumps (like you would in stockinette sew) is not a good thought either as these purl stitches are much farther apart. So information technology's both more than visible, less secure, and not reversible on summit of that. Instead, weave in the ends in garter stitch like this:

Step 1: Thread your tail on your tapestry needle, push apart ane of the ribs, and go right through the legs of the knit stitches for nigh half-dozen-viii stitches.

weaving in the tails of garter stitch by pulling the yarn through the legs of the knit stitches with a tapestry needle

Step 2 (optional): Depending on the materials you are working with, you can go one more than time in the other direction.

going one more time in the other direction

This method pushes the ribs a bit apart, so it will be slightly visible. However, I still found information technology to exist the least conspicuous and most secure method for garter run up.

how the garter stitch swatch looks like after you wove in the ends

If you don't like the way it looks, yous can of course also become through the edges. That, nevertheless, oft risks a little tail sticking out of your knitting later the beginning washing and will brand the edge much thicker on top of that – especially as the edges are typically the part of your knitting that sees the most article of clothing & tear.

#4 Knit in the cast on tail

The methods I showed yous so far all are great. But in that location's ane important thing you should know. There are ways to avoid weaving in ends if you programme your projection the right way. Ane mode is knitting in the cast-on tail.

Step ane: If you employ a standard long-tail bandage-on, and so your tail will always hang down right where you knit your first run up and you get-go your first row or circular. So instead of weaving in, you can pick upward the tail and knit the showtime row (or just the first half dozen-8 stitches) with two strands held together.

weaving in the tail by kitting the first round with two strands held togther (working yarn +tail)

Step 2: And once you covered 6-eight stitches, you can simply cutting off the ends. As this will create stitches that are a bit thicker, y'all may consider knitting the whole first row in that fashion then it's less visible.

cutting the tail after you knit the first whole row with two strands together

There's one thing y'all should know, even so. I think information technology'due south a great method and you lot volition demand a magnification lens to really run into information technology but it will accept away a bit of stretchiness from your edge. So, information technology's non ideal for hems and cuffs and whatsoever other kind of projection where y'all desire a stretchy border.

how the edge looks like after you knit in the end and knitted 4 more rows
How the cast on border looks afterwards a couple of rows. Tin can yous spot the double stitches at all?

Also, knit very carefully in the second row so you don't end upwards with increases. You lot need to knit the two strands as if they were one stitch.

#5 Weave in ends equally you knit

Another neat mode to avoid picking up a tapestry needle is weaving in ends as you knit. The technique is so unproblematic and works in so many instances that it might become your favorite method ever – especially if y'all love knitting stripes.

Step 1: When you lot bring together in a new color or yarn, knit 1 sew together. So, wrap the tail effectually your working yarn 1 fourth dimension. If you are familiar with Fair Isle or stranded knitting, y'all are essentially creating a reverse bladder on the backside.

wrapping the end around the working yarn to trap it on the backside

Stride ii: Repeat this procedure with every sew for about half dozen-viii stitches. So, always knit one stitch, so bring the cease effectually and thereby locking the terminate into place.

creating another float/wrapping the tail around the working yarn one more time (already 4 stitches in)

And one time you experience your cease is reasonably secure, you can simply cut of the rest and continue knitting.

You can, of course, apply the same technique and weave in 2 tails besides (like when y'all join in a new ball). In this example, you always have to wrap both ends around the working yarn before y'all knit the next stitch. I personally endeavor to avert doing this as information technology volition get quite a chip more than conspicuous.

how the weave in as you go looks like on the wrong side
How this technique looks on the wrong side after a couple of rows.

In that location are ii notes:

  • First of all, this method is somewhat visible on the wrong side. So, information technology's non exactly the best technique for reversible projects.
  • And information technology also just works for slightly fuzzy yarns (wool, mohair, etc) and yarns with a lot of friction. If you are knitting with cotton wool or some super slippery yarn, then weaving in tails every bit you knit is non plenty.

I got a full tutorial on weave in as you go here. Also, do check out my tutorial on how to join yarn with 10 other options.

#6 Using the felted join

Some other way to avoid weaving in tails is learning an invisible manner to join two tails together. My favorite one is the felted splice (sometimes called spit splice/join, etc). Most natural fibers (especially sheep wool) are feltable. This means if you apply some heat, friction, and water, you volition create felt.

Usually, that'due south the last thing you desire to happen to your knitting but when joining in a new brawl of yarn, you tin utilize this to your advantage. Here's the simple iv-step procedure:

  1. Pick the two ends autonomously so they look like a fan, and you tin can encounter individual fibers.
  2. Utilize some spit to wet them (you can besides utilise h2o but spit actually works amend).
  3. Stack the two ends upon each other and put them in the palm of your hands.
  4. Identify your other hand on top of the bring together and rub information technology with a lot of pressure
joining two yarns by felting them together with spit or water

As I said, this method simply works for natural fibers. It doesn't piece of work for acrylic yarn or fibers that have been treated in a way to create a superwash yarn. In these cases, you could expect into the "Russian Join".

#seven Hide tails in the seams

A lot of knitting projects are seamed. Sweaters are one such example or my piece of cake fingerless gloves for beginners. And, whenever there is a seam, there is a sweetness little ridge on the incorrect side where you tin easily hide the tails.

Step i: First of all, yous need to ensure that all your ends are positioned on the edges. And so, if you detect your balls is nearly washed, join in the next skein of yarn at the get-go of a row (instead of somewhere mid-row).

placing the ends at the edge of your knitting so you can hide it more easily

Step 2: And once you finished your seam, you tin simply use your tapestry needle and hide all the little ends by through information technology a couple of times. You could even squeeze in a knot here and at that place.

hiding the tail in the seam by going through that ridge with a tapestry needle

Two important notes:

  1. If your cast-on or bind-off tail is long enough, you can even use the end to do the actual seaming (due east.m. with mattress stitch).
  2. Going through the seam volition reinforce it. Be careful and then you don't constrict your finished projection (east.g. the shoulder seams of a sweater, etc). In these cases, other weaving-in methods are recommended.

#eight Weaving in stripes and colorwork

And so what nearly colorwork? How practise you weave in ends when knitting stripes, Fair Isle, etc? Well, always consider weaving in as you go if your yarn quality allows it. If it doesn't, you can employ the very basic method I showed for stockinette sew together (or any other method hither in this article). With two of import additions:

A) Always weave in the ends in the same colour block. Don't try to hide a red tail in a section of white. Every time you stretch out your knitting, the woven in terminate will peek through, and y'all don't want that.

weaving in the ends of stripes using a tapestry needle

B) You need a proper method to bring together in a new yarn – especially when knitting intarsia. The problem with colorwork is not the bodily weaving in technique. If you read this article then far, and then you lot should have a off-white understanding of what works and what doesn't works.

The problem lies in the fact that you cease up with a lot of tails and a lot of spots where you joined in a new yarn. And as you weave in the ends, you run the risk of creating lopsided stitches or even eyelets.

I. For intarsia, you create make clean joins & tail like this

Step 1: One sew together before y'all take to kickoff a new colour cake, trap the new colour between the working yarn and your needle. So knit the stitch equally normal. Essentially y'all are creating a little float here on the backside.

placing the new color between needle and working yarn one stitch before you need to start with a new color

Step 2: Before you lot showtime the new color block, twist the two threads effectually one or two times. This volition anchor your first stitch and create a very secure join. Equally a result, knitting that starting time stitches is much easier in the next row or round AND you don't distort it as you weave in the tails.

twisting the old color around the new color to create a tight join

Plain, y'all tin apply the aforementioned method whenever yous join a new yarn or color – no matter the project and pattern. Merely information technology volition merely work when you are joining in a new yarn midrow or you are knitting in the round.

II. How to handle the tails when knitting stripes or fair Isle apartment

When knitting stripes (flat), you usually join in the new colour at the very beginning of a row. And then, at that place is no showtime stitch you lot could utilise to ballast your yarn. In these cases, I don't use a special joining method.

Instead, I knit one row (or a couple of stitches), and while the stitches are all the same on the needle, I use the two tails and tie a knot effectually the needle using the two ends.

tying a knot after you finished knitting one row in a new color to secure the first stitch

I will unravel the knot before I weave in the ends subsequently (unless the project is seamed, see below). But for the moment, it volition secure the kickoff/last sew together in the new/old color. Equally a result, you never end up with those too loose stitches wherever you joined in a new color. And that helps you accomplish a much neater finished project (Y'all can also tiethea knot around the tail. Bank check out my tutorial on how to modify colors for more than info).

Note: Obviously, this method also works when you want to join in a new brawl in the same color, though there are often better means to handle such situations (encounter in a higher place).

#9 Weaving in ends on lace

One time you are no longer a beginner, you lot will eventually stop up with a lace project ane way or another. And so, what's the big deal? Why have a separate section for lace? Well, there are two problems when weaving in ends when knitting lace.

  • You are knitting lace with large needles (compared to the yarn weight) and your gauge often ends up being much looser. Every bit a result, stitches volition exist much farther apart and the fabric is often also flimsy for any serious sewing.
  • In that location are usually a lot of large eyelets, and you cannot bridge these without leaving visible strands behind.

You lot accept two options:

A) Position your ends the right fashion

Some lace patterns are not overly "lacy" and you take bigger sections of stockinette run up or garter run up in between. In these cases, you lot tin can weave in the tails equally I showed you above – at least if you are smart about where you bring together in a new ball.

weaving in the tails of a lace swatch in a big section of stockinette stitch

Absolutely brand sure that you split the yarn as you become. This will add an extra layer of security that is very vital when weaving in ends on knitted lace.

Be aware that this volition but work if you employ fuzzy yarn (thankfully a lot of lace patterns do). If y'all are knitting a doily with slick cotton yarn, and so this method won't get yous far. In these cases, check out #ten where I talk about that.

B) Use indistinguishable stitch

When, for whatever, reason, the get-go method doesn't piece of work. Y'all tin can try to use a duplicate stitch and trace the natural path of your stitches.

The exact method will depend on your private pattern and the exact position of your tail. As an example, I'll bear witness you lot how to do this with a column of knit stitches. For duplicate run up, blunt tapestry needles are much easier.

Step 1: Get underneath the rib between a knit stitch.

going underneath the rib between two knit stitches to weave in the end of a lace swatch with a tapestry needle

Step 2: Get underneath the 2 legs of the knit stitch directly above.

going underneath the two legs of knit stitch

Footstep 3: Become underneath the next rib between the knit sew together 1 row below.

going underneath the rib between two knit stitches one more time

Repeat these steps 6-8 times until you grafted/duplicated enough stitches, so cut the tail.

how my lace swatch looks after I wove in the tail

Again, this method only works with fuzzy yarns. By definition, the individual stitches in lace will be much looser than in my case pictures (where I used a sturdy dk cotton yarn so you tin can come across the actual technique much meliorate).

Every fourth dimension you stretch your lace, you risk unraveling the duplicate sew a bit. Practice this oft enough, and your tail will come one. So, this is a "last resort" kind of method when everything else is not possible. And once again, consider combining this technique with method #ten.

Note: Consider finishing weaving in the tails after you washed and blocked your lace. Tails can frequently come undone in the process. Then, proceed the tails for the moment and merely cut off the excess after blocking.

#10 Weaving in cotton wool ends

One of the most hard things to weave in is cotton yarn. The fiber is very slick, information technology does non felt, and on top of that, it oft stretches out quite a bit later washing. So, if you were to weave in the ends the normal way, at that place is a high chance they could come undone after the first laundry or wear.

So, when you are facing such a glace/slick yarn, and so you take to tie knots. Knots by and in themselves are never the best idea considering they can come undone (most knots are only secure under stress and not when the ends relax). And in one case they do, there is only a tiny bit of yarn that keeps them from unraveling. So, you lot take to combine them with another knitting technique like this.

Step 1: Thread the end on a tapestry needle and weave it in for 3-4 stitches by piercing through the purl bumps as you get (but the way I showed you higher up).

starting to weave in a cotton yarn by going through the purl bumps on the wrong side for 4-5 stitches

Pace 2: Split the tail in 2 parts.

splitting the yarn after you wove in a couple of stitches

Stride 3: Choice up one of the two parts and pull it underneath the adjacent run up.

going underneath the bump of a purl stitch with one part

Step four: Tie a knot effectually that run up. Be careful that you stretch out the knitting a bit before you do it so you don't crease the fabric.

tying a knot with the two parts of the tail

Stride 5: Pick up one of the ii ends, and weave in for 3-4 more stitches.

weaving in the first part of the tail with the tapestry needle

Footstep six: Take upwardly the other finish and weave it in going in a different direction.

pulling the yarn through in a different direction

Footstep 7 (optional): Split the yarn one more than fourth dimension in two parts, become underneath the next stitch, and tie some other knot.

tying another knot after splitting the yarn one more time

Footstep viii (optional): And and so, do the same with the 2nd part, and weave in the remaining (four) ends for another couple of stitches, and cut off the rest.

how the swatch in cotton yarn looks like after weaving in
The little cotton switch afterward you lot cut off all ends

Steps 7+8 are optional and recommended if yous are knitting with a very loose gauge or the yarn is extremely slippery.

Important: Y'all tin can, of course, utilise the aforementioned full general method and combine it with any other technique I showed you in this tutorial (ribbing, garter stitch, lace, etc). It always boils down to weaving in the terminate for a couple of stitches, splitting it, tying a knot, etc.

Further tips for weaving in tails

I ever say that weaving in ends is more a form of fine art than a uncomplicated technique. And the worst part: A lot of knitting patterns don't even mention it properly. If at all, you will observe a half-sentence like "Finishing by weaving in the ends" without indicating a special method.

While I try to supply my readers with very clear instructions in all my knitting patterns (at least those clearly geared towards beginners), here are some important tips.

Read your design before you kickoff

Before yous fifty-fifty knit the outset stitch, quickly scan your pattern, and figure out how many tails you will end up, and if in that location are ways to weave them in as yous knit, or avoid them altogether, etc. Tin can you modify yarns/colors, in a way that it's easier to handle? Is it a fuzzy yarn or is information technology really slippery?

Ultimately, this can likewise mean that you lot pick a different yarn. Knitting a huge blanket or sweater with ane oz balls might not be a adept idea equally it guarantees you lot volition end upward with a gazillion ends. And likewise, a large intarsia sweater with cotton yarn is perhaps not the best thought either.

Go through a checklist with every end you terminate upward

With every tail you end up, you lot mentally should go through a little checklist. Is at that place a seam or other not visible part of the design where you can hide the end? If there isn't, well then maybe there is a wrong side. And if there isn't, are there sections where the woven in end will be less visible? So on…

All the techniques I showed y'all are visible in one style or some other. Weaving in always reinforces your fabric, then ideally speaking, the tails should be hidden in places y'all cannot see.

What if the stop is besides short to weave in? (or comes loose)

Equally a rule of pollex, I always recommend you lot leaving a big tail (here'due south how to calculate how much yarn y'all need for a long tail cast on). Wasting 5 inches of yarn won't kill y'all in 99% of all cases, but ending up with a tail that is only two inches long will be a problem.

All the same, there are those cases where your ends are just likewise brusque to properly thread them on a tapestry needle. And sometimes the end comes undone after yous wove it in, and there is this little tail sticking out of your fabric. So what can you lot do in these cases? Very easy in fact.

Step i: Pick up your tapestry needle and weave it through the textile without the tail!

Footstep 2: Pull the brusque end through the eyelet, and now you tin pull the yarn through.

a technique for weaving in too short ends

Patently, this method only works if the unabridged tail is longer than say 1 inch. If it's shorter, your only reliable option is sewing over that section with a thin thread in a matching color or reinforcing that part using a duplicate stitch.

Anyway, that'southward how to weave in ends. Comment below in case y'all even so take any questions!

how to weave in ends in knitting - 10 different techniques

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Source: https://nimble-needles.com/tutorials/how-to-weave-in-ends-10-essential-knitting-techniques/

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